Travelog TwentysevenJune, 2005
Martinique to Antigua





Smooth Sailing...
Hello Friends, 

Once again we have had a fabulous trip up island and just arrived in Antigua after a great three weeks in Martinique, Dominica and Guadaloupe. This is the first year that we have had such incredibly smooth passages between all the islands with some wonderful reaching sails. 
 
After arriving in Marin, Martinique we spent the first few days taking care of chores on the boat and shopping for food and wine. After Venezuela, Martinique is still the best and cheapest place to buy decent (cheap) wine. You know our priorities! After clearing Customs and Immigration we moved to the little village of St. Anne, a quiet little fishing village with a large, calm anchorage, which is a big favorite with the cruising boats.

 
Sunset at St. Anne, Martinique


I may have previously mentioned that the Euro has made it very expensive for us compared to previous years but we still managed to have some great meals out and always found a decent beer or glass of wine. A few days later, our friends Rich and Sam arrived to spend a few days with us. He is English and she is from Scotland and they are the Captain and chef on a 47 ft. Moorings charter catamaran. In our eagerness to catch up with them we had a hair-raising experience with one of the many reefs in the area. Returning from Marin to St. Anne, we spotted their catamaran anchored off the beach and immediately made a left turn to join them. There are several large reefs in the area which are clearly marked by large red buoys. With the overcast lighting we didn't realize we had cut the turn a little close and..wham, we were stopped dead in the water. Luckily, we were only doing about 2 knots and were able to make a hard turn and motor off with no damage except to our pride along with some scrapes and paint scuffs on the bottom of the keel. The next day with the sun high overhead, we were able to see the pesky little reef which was about 100' across and not showing on our charts.  The following day Rich rented a car for an island tour to look at some property and we were invited along for the ride. The island is quite beautiful with miles and miles of sugar cane fields and banana plantations. The center of the island has a couple of large volcanos and the road winds through some picturesque little villages, beautiful rain forests and botanical gardens. After leaving Anse Mitan and the Fort de France area, we spent the last couple of nights anchored at St. Pierre.

This is the site of the 1902 Mt. Pelee eruption, which destroyed the entire town and killed 30,000 people. The town was rebuilt but many of the ruins are still standing or were incorporated into the new buildings.


VIVA anchored below Mt. Pelee at St. Pierre

After leaving St. Pierre, it was off to Dominica, and within an hour of the anchorage we caught a beautiful wahoo on our trolling line, our first edible fish in five years. Pam said it was enough for 8 meals!


Wahoo! Steve with dinner for eight!

On the Pacific side of the Panama Canal we caught fish almost every day...tuna, dorado and wahoo; but since we arrived in the Caribbean, we haven't had much luck. Pam puts the trolling line out every time we leave an anchorage but I had honestly forgotten what a live fish looks like! After a night in Prince Rupert Bay, the next stop was Les Saintes, a beautiful little group of vacation islands off the coast of Guadaloupe; sort of a French version of Catalina, only much more expensive. After a couple days kicking back, we then had a comfortable motorsail along the coast of Guadaloupe, to Deshaies, our final stop before Antigua Upon our arrival, Antigua was getting all cranked up for the Mega Yacht Regatta on April 8, followed by the Classic Regatta, followed by Antigua Race Week. I have been asked to cover the Classic Regatta for "Caribbean Compass" with an article and photos and we had been asked to skipper a little ketch in the Classic Regatta by some friends we met in Venezuela. SECOND KISS also just arrived along with some other cruising friends we hadn't seen in months so it was to be a pretty wild time for the next couple of weeks We will cover these events in our next Travelog.

        
Yoles, traditional racing canoes in Martinique
   
 
market scenes and colonial architecture in Martinique
                
 

Life is good! Best wishes to all. 

Steve & Pam